KR150/KIPS/KRR150 old/new model engine differences

jayjeffrey wrote:bro, thats the stock factory chain/sprocket size for the zx150...

Hehehe... Seriously. I thought the chain is 428 by default. Hehehe...

im not sure for the first model of the zx150, but for the current ZX on retail, its 520, and it sux.

Yup its true. I've just checked my chain, and it's "kendur" already. My mileage is only 6++km. Feelin like 1 2 use the chain tensioner. How bout it?

thats the issue for the standard chain, happens all the time. Probably too heavy? i'm not sure, but do get rid of it if you wish to. It would be better to spend the money on a new chain/sprocket set rather than on a tensioner, generally, tensioner wears out your chain faster and good ones don't come cheap, cheap ones... might as well be used as a paperweight.

sinclair wrote:

KRBKK wrote:Thanks for the replies. If the newer engine has more power I will look at getting one, but first I want to fix the back suspension and exhaust. Any idea how much extra KW/HP with the new engine?

Regarding prices, I have been told a second hand engine in excellent condition is B6,500, which is a little over US$200 (second hand KRs start from . I will see what I can find out, but pls be patient, I know a good honest mechanic, but he is very busy and I don't trust anyone else. I don't know about shipping to Malaysia, do you have to pay import tax?

What other modifications are popular with the KIPS? What about a larger carb? I have a 32mm Mikuni carb I was thinking of using.

im not sure, but few words flying around telling me that if u fiddle with carbs (34mm) + pdk full system + PDK gold 1855 block + bigger radiator = can get easily 38-40hp @ 240km/h

btw, regarding importing stuff, label it as sample/gift could easily get a cheaper import tax

if u can, could u quote me the price for sport rims, 1855 gold pdk block, pdk full exhaust system, koso digital meter, racing footrest, and pdk airbox, thanx

Bro, believe me when I say 38-40 rear wheel horse power is not easy at all.In fact, it is already very near the max potential our bikes can have after modding the daylights out of our bikes. It forces you to use racing fuel because of the upped compression and the block has to be stripped down practically after every race. And 240kmh is bull too.... ask that fella or anyone that told you he can hit 240kmh to get a GPS...

Also when a brochure says a bike is producing 40hp, remember that the numbers is AT THE CRANK and those numbers are VERY VERY VERY optimistic. Take away ~15% and you will get the rear wheel hp IF you bike is in immaculate condition. Also very important is the temperature, the humidity, the elavation of that place of dyno not forgetting things like wheel-slip, chain condition, dyno accuracy, etc. All these factors can and will give you a a totally different reading maybe by until 30% of your original hp number. So imagine if your bike should be making 30hp at the rear wheel, readings will show maybe 21hp or even 39hp at the machine. It all depends...

turbonoshayabusa wrote:Also when a brochure says a bike is producing 40hp, remember that the numbers is AT THE CRANK and those numbers are VERY VERY VERY optimistic. Take away ~15% and you will get the rear wheel hp IF you bike is in immaculate condition. Also very important is the temperature, the humidity, the elavation of that place of dyno not forgetting things like wheel-slip, chain condition, dyno accuracy, etc. All these factors can and will give you a a totally different reading maybe by until 30% of your original hp number. So imagine if your bike should be making 30hp at the rear wheel, readings will show maybe 21hp or even 39hp at the machine. It all depends...

SALAM FERNO

ADREY wrote:

turbonoshayabusa wrote:Also when a brochure says a bike is producing 40hp, remember that the numbers is AT THE CRANK and those numbers are VERY VERY VERY optimistic. Take away ~15% and you will get the rear wheel hp IF you bike is in immaculate condition. Also very important is the temperature, the humidity, the elavation of that place of dyno not forgetting things like wheel-slip, chain condition, dyno accuracy, etc. All these factors can and will give you a a totally different reading maybe by until 30% of your original hp number. So imagine if your bike should be making 30hp at the rear wheel, readings will show maybe 21hp or even 39hp at the machine. It all depends...

SALAM FERNO

It's a small world ain't it....

turbonoshayabusa wrote:Also when a brochure says a bike is producing 40hp, remember that the numbers is AT THE CRANK and those numbers are VERY VERY VERY optimistic. Take away ~15% and you will get the rear wheel hp IF you bike is in immaculate condition. Also very important is the temperature, the humidity, the elavation of that place of dyno not forgetting things like wheel-slip, chain condition, dyno accuracy, etc. All these factors can and will give you a a totally different reading maybe by until 30% of your original hp number. So imagine if your bike should be making 30hp at the rear wheel, readings will show maybe 21hp or even 39hp at the machine. It all depends...

let me add some info.

for power output measured at the crank, we say hp or horsepower.

for engine power measure at the wheel, we say bhp or brake-horsepower. it is because the brake is the last component before power is transmitted to the wheel

power is also stated in kW or PS (horsepower in german, if not mistaken)

which is exactly why we dont see brochures specification stating BHP haha. There is exceptions... but 99.9% it wont be there. Take for example, a 7 seater MPV, crank hp is useless after taking into account of car weight, passenger, horrible aerodynamics.

so true. i second you...

hai i live in indonesia i used Kawasaki KR 150 1855 block, HSAS superkips, but i dont understand why my KR 150 superkips always clogged? i heard that KRR 150 1878 block from Thailand has more better quality and 1878 superkips is rare to clogged than 1855 block from indonesia.

im very dissapointed...

hi, i believe ur clogging problem "may" have something to do with your riding style instead of the problem with the block. You should let your bike rev up(>8000rpm) more often. Carbon deposits on the PV is usually because the rider doesnt rev out often.

If your carbon deposit not the PV(power-valve), it could also mean your air-fuel ratio, a richer mixture tends to build up carbon faster.

Also, i have heard from my indo friends around here, fuels at indonesia are bad and has too many additives and is difficult to burn. Fuel quality might contribute to carbon deposit buildups as well.

Anyways, welcome to the forum, enjoy your stay here.

btw, just to add, most rider here ride the newer model(superkips) and they all have 1878 pre-installed. Personally, i switched from 1878 to 1855 and i don't seem to be having the problem ur having.

jayjeffrey wrote:btw, just to add, most rider here ride the newer model(superkips) and they all have 1878 pre-installed. Personally, i switched from 1878 to 1855 and i don't seem to be having the problem ur having.

So, do you find any difference in characteristics between those 2 blocks? Stock blocks? Re-jetted to suit the different profile of the ports on the 1855?

yea rejetted, compression slightly higher due to differences in gaskets... though.. thats pretty much most of it. oh, temp doesn't go up as fast as the previous one and less power-loss over long distance travel(>200km). The previous standard block gives out noticeable lack of response after a long ride.

btw, im surprised to see that you're still lurking around here haha!

jayjeffrey wrote:yea rejetted, compression slightly higher due to differences in gaskets... though.. thats pretty much most of it. oh, temp doesn't go up as fast as the previous one and less power-loss over long distance travel(>200km). The previous standard block gives out noticeable lack of response after a long ride.

Very good and valuable info.. Thanks for sharing..

jayjeffrey wrote:yea rejetted, compression slightly higher due to differences in gaskets... though.. thats pretty much most of it. oh, temp doesn't go up as fast as the previous one and less power-loss over long distance travel(>200km). The previous standard block gives out noticeable lack of response after a long ride.

Thought so, cause that's due to the inferior sleeves the 1878 has compared to the Japan-made 1855... well, you get what you pay right? Hehehe... so I assume you went down on your main and pilot after using the 1855?

Yeah, I'm still around watchin the forum...

i went down on the main and up the pilot slightly, leaned out the needles as well(on stock carb). well, its a waste to use standard carb on 1855 as the block loves SM. hit me harder babeh!! thats what my block tells me...

jayjeffrey wrote:i went down on the main and up the pilot slightly, leaned out the needles as well(on stock carb). well, its a waste to use standard carb on 1855 as the block loves SM. hit me harder babeh!! thats what my block tells me...

You even went down on the needle? 2nd gap from the fat part?

yea, a/f tuned midnight,,ambient temp was reading 26c. by far thats the leanest i can go with stock carbs, play safe.

btw, i know u had a 34mm uma carb, is the mixture so inconsistent even using ori uma jets? i know the local keihin pwk jets are horrendous... i just bumped across a 34mm flatside mikuni... my new toy. initial run shows insufficient air intake, may need to open up new holes in the airbox......

jayjeffrey wrote:yea, a/f tuned midnight,,ambient temp was reading 26c. by far thats the leanest i can go with stock carbs, play safe.

btw, i know u had a 34mm uma carb, is the mixture so inconsistent even using ori uma jets? i know the local keihin pwk jets are horrendous... i just bumped across a 34mm flatside mikuni... my new toy. initial run shows insufficient air intake, may need to open up new holes in the airbox......

Any carb that is bigger than a 34 forces you to drill holes in the airbox...the other way round this problem is to add nuts to the cover of your airbox so that the cover of your airbox and and the base actually gaps. With the new gap, sufficient air can go into the airbox. I added 2 nuts per screw to my configuration.

The problem with these Uma carbs are 1 : The slides have too much freeplay even when they are brand new, 2 : This bloody carb comes with a power jet and there are no sizes for the power jets, 3 : Using such large carbs forces you to up your main jets until it's so big your bike farts and stutters at around 7-9 rpm or you will run lean at your max rpm.

A mikuni 34 eh? I have one of those too, but it's a TM35... it took ages to set those buggers. Sacrificed 1 block in the process. Fack....

thats what i did, i used a washer actually, just a really small one, approx 3mm gap opening on only half of the box as i was worried that the filter wouldnt stay in place.

Is the TM35 flat slide? and yeah, 34mm is pretty hard to tune and like you say, will be eventually forced to use some big-ass jets, i think ill prolly go down to 32mm. TZMs 30mm carbs are just nice actually... then again, theres always "room" for more... =X

I have access to a dyno machine that belonged to my friend, so it really helped in jetting as i can use the fume sensor on the exhaust. Then again, the dyno is for car so i cant strap my bike on, can only use the sensor and ram the bike on a standstill. Far from accurate, but the AF from the fume is a good start to further fine tuning.

jayjeffrey wrote:i went down on the main and up the pilot slightly, leaned out the needles as well(on stock carb). well, its a waste to use standard carb on 1855 as the block loves SM. hit me harder babeh!! thats what my block tells me...

Jay, what are the disadvantages of 1855? compare to 1878 that you have noticed so far..,  and, by the way, what is SM?