how to break in your new engine (time pantang la in malay)

Salam to all,

A newbie here, just want to share some useful info regarding engine break in style..
I saw this link from a singapore bike forum. The hard way of break in is applicable to 4stroke and 2 stroke.
Just read CAREFULLY and UNDERSTAND the method that is stated.

There a lots of useful info from the link, it is about learning and understanding your engine and making small calculated adjustment to get the optimum performance from and engine @ BLUEPRINTING.

You can share your opinion and post it.

here is the link..

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

good comment bro, but many sifu riders from jb say no need pantang. just rem max out. or pv jam. this jam cannot eat with bread.

alldisc wrote:good comment bro, but many sifu riders from jb say no need pantang. just rem max out. or pv jam. this jam cannot eat with bread.

HAHAHAH "this jam cannot eat with bread" ayat power tu....

Alldisc,
That is what i meant... during BREAK IN period, the phrase 'pantang = break in' actually means that u can just ride your bike as normal.. BUT in order to do it CORRECTLY and clear out all myth.. just read the link.

If you want to break in the bike, you must know how... that is what i have done on my bike (135LC).. although i dont have any dyno test to prove or any pictures of my piston... but you can actually feel the difference.

dear amirol, fyi i am in automotive industry since 1994. i do know about engines. and this thing has been commonly discussed over and over again. do some search before postings ok. i am just trying to be friendly. dont take it too serious.

rule no 1: Never argue with alldisc

rule no 2: Never look directly to his bike

The hard breaking-in works. If it works for race bikes, which do not have time for all these namby-pamby slow breaking-in procedure,it will work for our bikes. Race teams WILL NOT sacrifice hp and reliability if they know hard breaking will cause all these problems. MOrover, it was never taught that you need to rev the living hell out of your new bike / engine during these hard breaking in procedures. Remember, nothing in our bike's engine need breaking in EXCEPT the pistons and the cylinder sleeve, and also not forgetting the new clutch plates, which needs seating-in properly. Valves (if you are breaking in a 4 stroke) needs the heat to sit well too. Remember what Motoman said? NEVER ride your bike at a constant speed while breaking in. That is because acceleration and deceleration produces heat as well besides the mentioned reason of 'mating' the pistons and the cylinder walls. Things like bearings does not need breaking-in. Other metal-to-metal stuff needs the extra speed (or deceleration in this case) to 'gel' properly while they still have metal peaks when they are new. I have done this for my ER6n and all my KIPS (3 KIPS till this date) and my newly overhauled FXR150. Let me assure you it works.

In the automotive industry, many myths has been debunked despite being backed-up by big names like BMW including not needing to warm-up an engine before shooting off, the use of cooking-oil in our engines (also backed-up by science, but in this case, false science), etc....

Did u examined the piston? I mean does it looks like the motoman's examples.

hakim wrote:Did u examined the piston? I mean does it looks like the motoman's examples.

I examined the pistons in my FXR150 and there wasn't burnt signs below the second ring.... all these was in the duration of 2 weeks.... And don't ask why I took my engine apart in that short duration...hehehehehehehehe!

I dont wanna ask laa. Coz i knew u. Speed freak is all i can say... Hehehehe... Anyway thanx for the info.

hakim wrote:I dont wanna ask laa. Coz i knew u. Speed freak is all i can say... Hehehehe... Anyway thanx for the info.

Aiyo, you know me ah....oh oh.... hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha! Im not a speed freak la, I just like modified stuffs... Everyone using forum name, don't know who is who....hehehehehehe.....

just to add, another crappy method for run in = overnight dyno.

gammafiber wrote:rule no 1: Never argue with alldisc

rule no 2: Never look directly to his bike

who says this? aiyoohh...

but no.2 is correct lah. my KRZ is one bad looking bike. shameful. dont look directly ok! ha ha ha...

anyway, my style of running-in is easy no matter what vehicle we drive.

example a car with max 6,000rpm. i will drive at max 3,000rpm for the first few hundered km. at 300-500km i will increase the acceleration to 3,500rpm but i will not maintain. just once in a while.

at 500-800km i will increase to about 4,000rpm. again, only once in a while. by 1,000km i will have reach 5,000rpm.

so, in kips case of max 10,500rpm i will start my limit at 5,000rpm then increase by 1,000rpm. and by the time i hit the first 1,000km i already run-in the bike until 8,000rpm and that is equivalent to about 140kph which is already a fast speed for daily use without compromising on the powervalve operation.

jayjeffrey wrote:just to add, another crappy method for run in = overnight dyno.

Not crappy, it works the same as doin it on the road, just without being really on the road. Race teams do this very often....

well, its easy, thats for sure. But to properly achieve a break in vs street/track condition, the car/bike will probably have to double or even tripple the mileage done on the road. thats what i used to do back then to my car... the result is never better than a manual break in. First time was newly transplanted, second time was after hardening block and changed forged pistons/conrods with cevite bearings.

jayjeffrey wrote:well, its easy, thats for sure. But to properly achieve a break in vs street/track condition, the car/bike will probably have to double or even tripple the mileage done on the road. thats what i used to do back then to my car... the result is never better than a manual break in. First time was newly transplanted, second time was after hardening block and changed forged pistons/conrods with cevite bearings.

What is your definition of 'manual break in'? Of course, breaking-in on the dyno is the best, where you have access to everything if you need to change / replace anything. Breaking in on the track is also another way...

Still, this hard breaking in applies to every other vehicle, be it magnesium coated pistons / cylinder vehicles, forged rods or some super-fly cevite bearings.

manual break in... drive it yourself lol. Track is another way too, but yea, sometimes, new engines cannot be pampered too much, else they become "lazy" at later stages lol.

yea hard breakin is applicable to most engines, however, i wouldn't dare risk it in my case, i ran 1.2bar of boost only before 3k km... only 2.5 bars after that. If an engine is in stock condition, i think its fine, but not for something modded way beyond factory specs...

jayjeffrey wrote:manual break in... drive it yourself lol. Track is another way too, but yea, sometimes, new engines cannot be pampered too much, else they become "lazy" at later stages lol.

yea hard breakin is applicable to most engines, however, i wouldn't dare risk it in my case, i ran 1.2bar of boost only before 3k km... only 2.5 bars after that. If an engine is in stock condition, i think its fine, but not for something modded way beyond factory specs...

Very lazy.... you can just feel the differece of a pampered engine and a raped one....

moral of the story,

kids, please rape your engines. RAPE YOUR ENGINEs!! it needs lots and lotsa rapin.

jayjeffrey wrote:moral of the story,

kids, please rape your engines. RAPE YOUR ENGINEs!! it needs lots and lotsa rapin.

And don't use rubber..... Make your engine a whore and it will serve you well....

and it is sure to give you pleasure... err... power on demand.